國家地理雜誌特刊 - 速克達台灣環島第一集 Epic Taiwan Scooter Tour Part 1 @ 龍先生的攝影日記: 英國攝影師台灣生活點滴紀錄

我必須承認及道歉這篇文章整整拖了一年才開始寫. 原因除了其它工作忙之外, 還有因為這次用重型機車(大綿羊)環美麗的台灣旅程真的需要一些時間來消化, 吸收. 這次的環島不只是藉由英國國家地理雜誌旅遊家(National Geographic Traveller UK) 與幫SYM三陽機車出任務的機會騎在台灣大大小小美麗蜿蜒的路上, 沿路欣賞旖旎風景, 也是一個自我啟發思索的一場旅行. 發現自己一個人在一個不是出生地的國家, 些許突然閃過的認知及學習活在當下的領悟.

I have to confess and apologise as this has taken me over a year to get around to writing. The reason for this is that it has taken me this long to really absorb the wonderful journey that I went on, a journey that took me all around Taiwan. The journey was not just about riding beautiful roads on my scooter and seeing amazing things, making a photographic essay for Nat Geo Traveller or shooting a campaign for SYM. It was a journey for me too, one of discovery, discovery about myself, being alone in a foreign country, the thoughts and realisations that come to you in these moments, and most importantly learning to be in that moment.

這是我的三陽MaxSYM600iABS 大綿羊. 在這環島的13天中, 我們總共騎超過2000英里, 從海邊到超過海面3000公尺山上, 騎過各種路況的旅程. 她雖然不算是最纖細, 但真的是一台舒適, 可靠及穩固的大速克達. 車座椅下的置物處也有很多空間, 加上外加的行李廂, 足足讓我可以裝旅程的行李及相機設備.

This is my SanYang Motor Company MaxSYM600iABS, Together we travelled 2000 miles, miles which took us along the coast, up to over 3000 meters and over all kinds of surfaces. She may not be the most svelte of machines, but she sure ticks the comfortable, sure footed and reliable boxes. There is plenty of space under the saddle for bags, but I needed to carry my camera kit too, so fitted out with a topbox I had all the space I required. Perfect for the tour.

我規劃的路線讓我從林口家中出發, 南下騎經台灣中部後朝西邊海岸繼續到台灣最南部, 然後再從東海岸路線回北部, 完成環島. 雖然出發前有規劃路線, 但我有時不小心轉錯彎, 或是我的導航當機, 所以最後也不是完全依照當初規劃的路線. 但是就像人生一樣, 我們都要學習柔軟然後適應克服路途中帶來的變化及驚喜.

My route would take me from home in Linkou (just south of Taipei), south down the island central and then west to the coast before travelling back north all the way up the east coast. I would make wrong turns and my satellite navigation system would break down. I set off with a planned and solid route, but as with all things in life, we have to learn to be flexible and roll with what comes our way.

這是我本來規畫的路程, 每一條有顏色的路線代表每天要騎的路程. 我沒有每天都趕路, 因為有一些地方實在太美麗了, 讓我忍不住多花幾天留在當地探索.

This was my planned route, each coloured represented a day on the road from one destination to the next. I wasn't travelling everyday as I spent a few in some areas to explore more.

環島的第一段旅程我從林口騎經宜蘭到了台中縣的和平區. 路線還算蠻簡單, 就一直沿著蜿蜒的台7縣騎到和平區. 但我又一如往常比我預期的時間晚出發, 所以有一段路幾乎是摸著黑騎的! 然後又因為太陽下山了, 11月底的山頭清冷, 我到民宿時其實已經蠻累, 就直接去休息了. 所以第二天我起床時驚訝的發現自己簡直身在天境! 和平區四處都是果園, 我到時正是產梨季, 所以吃了新鮮的梨子配上美景當早餐.

I am sorry that there are no real photographs of this section, the sky was grey and time was against me. When I woke up the following morning, I found I was in a most beautiful place. Heping District is full of fruit farms and I had arrived in the middle of pear season. Fresh, cool and crisp pears for breakfast were very refreshing and a great way to start the day. Not to mention the amazing view.

離開民宿後繼續上路, 在這一區我幾乎可以每走半哩就停下來拍照, 但我需要照著規劃的行程走趕路到太魯閣.

I could have made photographs every half a mile, I was on a schedule and needed to complete the second leg of my journey into Hualien and Taroko Gorge National Park. With my scooter happily loaded and riding well I pushed on.

路程規劃是沿著台7線走, 然後接台8線. 嗯應該不難吧!

但我在台7接台8時居然轉錯彎!!! 算了, 我一般對於迷路不會壓力太大, 這是探險的一部份不是嗎? 迷路著迷路著就讓我發現到這等美景!

So Looks simple enough, along the 7 and onto the 8, the only problem was that I went the wrong direction on the 8! I don't get stressed about going the wrong way, it is all part of the adventure and I got to discover this...

這條路實在是太漂亮了! 如果不是因為土石流封路的話, 我應該會將錯就錯的把這條路騎完. 在台灣某些山路常常會因天氣的關係受土石流傾害, 所以騎山路一定要小心看警告標誌. 這一條路差一點點就要修好了但應該後面的土石侵害比較嚴重所以還在修. 我才在想為什麼剛剛路上一台車都沒有……

The road was beautiful, and had it not been for the fact it was closed due to a landslide I would have continued along it. I suppose I got my first warning passing this, a fairly common problem, and something to be aware of when travelling in this part of the island, a landslide had wiped part of the road away. The section I passed was almost repaired, it was further along that a more serious issue was in the process of repair. Kind of explained why this section of route 8 was so free of other traffic.

終於發現走錯路之後往回頭, 往太魯閣精英酒店 (下一篇再分享飯店) 方向蜿蜒騎去. 今天這一條路線每個轉彎都是令人驚嘆的風景. 這一條橫向切過台灣的山路叫做中橫, 是全世界7條最危險道路其中之一. 不是因為你會塞車或或有開過地雷的危險, 而是可能會被山上掉下來, 像房子一樣大的石頭砸到的風險. 所以我決定還是繼續追著雲騎到雲層上方視野會比較好.

Backtracking and heading in the correct direction I was soon winding my way into Taroko Gorge. My destination was Silks Place Taroko (I will write about this place in my next blog), the journey to it greets you with stunning views at every turn. The road through the Gorge is called the Central Cross Island Highway and is classed as the seventh most dangerous in the world. No you are not likely to be held up by highwaymen or blown up by mines, but you may have a rock fall on you, and one as big as a house at that. I figured it was best to keep moving and chased the rising clouds for a chance to see above them.

路帶我回到山谷中, 清澈閃藍的河水沿著山谷旁的石頭骣骣蜿蜒流下. 實在很難決定哪一個點是最能捕捉這個大自然鬼斧神工之美, 所以我決定在太魯閣停留幾天好好探索. 在下一篇文章前就用這一張立霧溪照片吊吊你們的胃口吧

Back down in the gorge, the crystal blue water cascades through the rocky, boulder ridden twists and turns. It is hard to find the right place to stop and make a shot. Fortunately I was to be staying in the gorge for a couple of nights and would have a day to explore more. For now I will leave you with this shot of the Liwu River that formed the gorge to wet your appetite.